Tuesday, February 19, 2013

West Seattle Way

SEATTLE CENTER: This was one of those rare moments when the sun was with us from the get go. Naturally, that just meant we were itching to get out into it all day long.

This afternoon, a bit before 2 p.m., we finally headed out. We decided to go down to West Seattle, and stroll/scoot along the waterfront pathway there. It was a good decision. :)

Above, you can see Seattle Center from the red key sign above Key Arena on the left to the iconic Space Needle on the right. In between are the white Pacific Science Center arches. Below the arches, you can see an orange sculpture, "Eagle," that's part of the Olympic Sculpture Park collection.

Here's more panoramic view of the city from our West Seattle walk today, from the Needle to downtown. Blue skies and blue Sound.
There were several points of interest along our walk. For instance, signs at and just northeast of this pier (pictured below) let us know that once upon a time, popular Luna Park stood in the area.
I can't believe we'd never heard about it before today! Built on pilings, the 12-acre park extended over Elliott Bay and was heralded as the "Greatest Amusement Park on the West Coast."

Founded in t1907, he park was only open six short years. It had a sterling pedigree, designed by famed carousel carver Charles I.D. Looff, who carved and installed Coney Island’s first carousel. The park had a carousel, of course, as well as a wooden figure-8 roller coaster. It was the era of Vaudeville, so Luna Park had two theaters. There was even a live bear pit! Here's a photo of Luna Park circa 1910.
One of the most distinctive features of the park was its Natatorium, which housed saltwater and freshwater swimming pools.
Sadly, by 1913, the park was a mess. In reading about it online, it sounds like it was a victim of mismanagement and political folly.  The rides were dismantled and shipped out. (The carousel is apparently still in operation, at Yerba Buena Gardens in San Francisco. It's now known as Zeum Carousel.)

All that remained of the amusement park was the Natatorium, which drew swimmers for the next two decades. But on the night of April 14, 1931, an arsonist's match lit the last chapter to Luna Park. The Natatorium gone, it closed forever. 

All that's left of the bright lights and big thrills are some piers only visible when the tide of Elliott Bay goes way out.

Another 'point of interest' signs we saw today told us we were standing in a spot that would have served as a vantage point to tragedy on Nov. 18, . On that evening, two miles out into the Sound from the shoreline, the steamer Dix, on its way from Seattle to Port Blakely, collided with an Alaska steamer, Jeanie.
The Tacoma-built Dix only operated for two years (1904-1906) before going down. The top heavy boat was built for one specific purpose/run - across Elliott Bay, from Seattle to Alki Point, a recreation hub for the Emerald City. Reportedly the Dix was built too narrowly - only 20.5 feet wide - which made her very unstable. During initial vessel testing, the ship was discovered to be so top heavy, 30 tons of ballast were added to help keep her upright.

On the night she went down,  Dix was serving as a relief boat for the Monticello on the Seattle-Port Blakeley run. The first mate was at the wheel. By all accounts it was a clear, calm night when Dix was inexplicably turned directly into the path of the 10x larger Jeanie, a three-masted schooner. 

As a result, 'Forty two people were carried to an early, watery grave," the sign we saw today reported. To date, that disaster remains the highest casualty count of any shipwreck in the area. None of the bodies of the victims were recovered, according to reports I read tonight. They went down with the ship.

This photo, below is taken not far from the POI sign.
The wreckage of Dix is believed to have been located in 2011. It sits at a depth of 500 feet, about one mile north of Alki Point. You can find some photos of the wreckage here: http://www.boydski.com/diving/photos/wrecks/dix/DixWreck.htm

We saw nothing but mildly choppy waters and smooth sailing (or barging) during our jaunt today.
 Here's a shot across to our hill (to the left), Magnolia.
 And here we are headed back to our car. Queen Anne Hill is in the distance.


1 comment:

  1. I don't remember ever hearing about Luna Park or the Dix. Thanks for the history lesson.

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